The Premiere Pre-1940’s Specialist

Our Assurances

Careful attention is paid to the control of dust, protection of floors, and leaving your place as clean as we found it.

About Us

JPC Plaster & Drywall specializes in Plaster Repair – Pre 1940’s and more! Jim Conklin is the specialist behind it all with decades of experience. 

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Restoration of historic plaster, especially in homes built before 1940. Cracks, water damage, coves, cornices, and ornamental plaster.  We pay special attention to detail, and keeping your home as clean as we found it.


Established in 1986.

JPC Plaster offers a traditional approach to the plaster problems of your pre-1963 home or commercial property. Use of traditional materials and techniques are the hallmark of JPC Plaster. Whether your damage came from a roof leak, bath leak, or just from age, we can restore your home to its former beauty.  Flat plaster, coves, crown moldings and decorative moldings are all in our skill set. 

JPC Plaster is dedicated to an operation that assures that every job we work on is completed in a smooth and timely manner.  Careful attention is paid to the control of dust, protection of floors and leaving your home as clean as we found it.

Meet the Business Owner

James C.James C.Business Owner

James P Conklin,  Started JPC Plaster in 1986.  His business is focused primarily on the restoration of plaster in old historic homes, in addition to flat plaster. JPC  Plaster does cornice and molding work, decorative plaster, coves, ceiling rings, and textures. With experience on over 600 homes and several commercial historic landmark properties, JPC are the experts that you want in your home.

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(734) 904-0016

available from 7:00am – 6:00pm EST

JPC Plaster & Drywall

Jim Conklin

Address 6070 Campbell Rd.
Ann Arbor, MI 48108




Plaster & Drywall

A dying trade, Plaster was replaced by Drywall in 1963. Since that time, there have been few that have learned the secrets from the old artisans. 

I had the privilege of learning this trade from Ralph who began his work as an apprentice at the age of 15. Since 63′ I am the only one whom he has taught his trade.

Much of our work involves the repair of cracked and deteriorating plaster. All work is done using true plaster materials. Application of the proper material assures a repair that will provide an accurate finish, and enduring integrity. 

In most cases historical plaster does not have to be replaced, but when this is necessary, we can provide true plaster even over wood lathe. 

Click on the picture to the left to see step by step photos and other job site pictures of what we do.

Visit this link to see why your ceiling may be peeling.

Major Restoration

JPC Plaster & Drywall has been involved in several major restoration projects.

Additionally our company has taken on restoration work that while smaller in scope than the jobs referenced above, are equally challenging for a skilled restoration expert.

For example, in the photo to the right, we restored plaster in a dining room ceiling then applied 4 of these plaster medallions in the four corners of the room. The medallions were purchased from a distributor. Plaster medallions can often be repaired or reproduced on the job site. Cornices can also be repaired using the same techniques. The medallion in the photo that Jim is holding, was badly damaged. It was re-built by filling in missing / damaged sections with clay, a mold taken of the positive, plaster poured into the negative; and this was the finished medallion that came out of the mold before being mounted on the wall. 

Click on the photo to see more before and after job pictures.


Our gallery

Sample Images

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Click to see more pictures of before and after from the jobs we handle at JPC Plaster 


Cures for Calcimine Ceilings

Three ways to fix these quick-peeling surfaces.

Peeling calcimine ceiling

Though the first few coats of oil-based paint sometimes penetrate a calcimine ceiling and hang on for several years, water-based latex paint can begin to bubble and peel away almost immediately.

If patches of peeling paint hang from your ceiling, or paint chips litter your floors, your old house’s past probably includes calcimine paint. Since calcimine is essentially a water-based mixture of chalk and glue binder, in time any modern paint applied over a calcimine base will fail. There are no easy or quick-fix solutions to dealing with calcimine coatings.

For any new paint to adhere in a smooth and long-lasting surface, you must remove as much of the calcimine as possible. Simply repainting the surface will not, unfortunately, make your problems go away. Here we’ll describe the three procedures we prefer when dealing with determined-to-peel calcimine surfaces.

Calcimine paint is a problem for old-house owners because it does not offer a durable base for modern paint coverings. Calcimine is a very soft coating and any movement by today’s stronger paint products will cause them to pull away. Environmental and climatic changes (temperature shifts, unheated rooms during winter, moisture and humidity) also significantly accelerate the delamination. The consequences are lots of peeling paint.

Identify What You’ve Got

The first process is to identify for sure that you are dealing with a calcimine problem and assess the kinds of paints that might be coated over it. Because it is predominantly chalk, you can easily detect calcimine by rubbing a damp finger (sure, spit works) or a sponge on the surface and looking for a chalky residue. If you have calcimine, it will feel just as if you wet your finger and rubbed a dirty chalkboard. To identify the subsequent types of paint, first choose a cloth or rag that is a distinctly different color from your surface so you can plainly see the results of your test. Next, dampen the cloth in rubbing alcohol and rub a peeling spot. Oil-based paint will not be affected by the alcohol, but water-based latex paints will dissolve to some degree, getting sticky and rubbery like an eraser. Sometimes there will be coats of oil paint followed by coats of latex. With this scenario you will see chips with a crackled base (the dry oil paint) and a stretchy, more intact top layer of paint. The rubbing alcohol experiment will remove the top layers of latex paint, then stop when it reaches the oil layer

Consider Complete Removal

If you really want to get rid of the calcimine problem, you need to scrape off all the paint and scrub away as much of the calcimine as possible. This is a time-consuming process that requires significant amounts of elbow grease, lots of water and detergent, and patience. It is also very messy and wet, so be sure to adequately protect floors, woodwork, furniture, and fixtures in the removal area.

Carbide scraper on a calcimine ceiling

Carbide scrapers are handy for removing stubborn paint and even the calcimine itself.

You might want to begin in a test area—perhaps a corner or less visible section of your room. This will help you develop a feel for the difference between paint, calcimine, and plaster and perfect a technique that does minimal damage to the plaster.

Step 1: Begin by scraping all visibly loose paint using a sharp putty knife or razor knife. If the ceiling is really peeling readily, start with a 6 joint compound knife. Once you get down to more stubborn paint and the calcimine, switch to a smaller 2” knife. (We prefer carbide scrapers at this stage.) Maintain control to minimize plaster damage, but remember that some is inevitable. You can repair blemishes once the calcimine is removed. As you scrape down to the calcimine level you will notice the tool generating more dust. This is the chalk coming off. Then you will begin to see the plaster beneath, and the scraper will stop generating the chalky dust. The surface will feel different, and you can see the white lime coat or the sandy look of the plaster.

Step 2: Once you feel you have scraped off as much paint as you can, begin scrubbing and washing. The water will soften the glue and encourage the calcimine to lift from the surface. Wash all surfaces with a detergent or hard surface cleaner (Spic ‘n’ Span, dishwashing liquid, TSP) using a scrubbing pad. Really scrub at the surfaces, and use a cleaner that will generate as many suds as possible. You want to generate a foamy-froth that suspends the water. It keeps the surface wet longer and helps the calcimine to let go.

Step 3: While the surface is still foamy, use a squeegee tool or large sponge to remove the foam and water. Repeat the scrubbing, sudsing, squeegee process several times, using clean water and fresh detergent each time. Usually two to four wash/scrub cycles are necessary. 

Step 4: Once you feel you have all the calcimine removed, rinse all surfaces using clean water. Follow up with one final clean-water rinse, then let the surface dry completely for a few days. Test the success of your calcimine removal by firmly rubbing a dark cloth or your finger across the surface in a few different places. If chalk appears, you still have more scrubbing to do! Our goal is to remove all of the old paint and calcimine, and realistically end up somewhere around 80-percent calcimine-free. Then we rely on oil-based calcimine coating paint or oil primer to make up the difference.

Scrubbing a calcimine ceiling

Ample suds, and plenty of vigorous scrubbing, are the only secrets for loosening the glue in old calcimine paint.

When you are ready to repaint your removal areas, use a calcimine-coater paint if available (see Suppliers). These products can be tricky to locate, but they will penetrate through any remaining calcimine and seal it. Some brands are made to be followed with a topcoat paint, and some are not, so read the labels carefully. If these products are not available, then prime all removal surfaces with an oil-based primer. You can then finish with a latex or oil topcoat of your choice.

Try a Quick Cover-up

If you want only to cover up your calcimine problem, then you can try a spot scrape-wash-seal of only the peeling areas. This approach may work nicely for years (we did a ceiling that’s held for 10 years), or it may not be successful. If you have a very small area that is peeling you might want to start with this approach. Once you have scraped off the loose paint, you can either scrape off the calcimine or gently wash it away in just the scraped areas. The more washing you do, the more the calcimine will lift off and your peeling areas will grow. Finally, go over these areas with a calcimine coater paint or oil-based primer. If you want to fill the shallow craters where the paint chips were. Use vinyl-based paste or filler compound instead of a water-based joint compound, which can activate the calcimine. Lightly sand with a 120-grit sanding block then gently damp-sponge these areas to remove sanding dust and follow up with another coat of calcimine coating paint (or oil-based primer). If you choose, you can now go over your plaster with a flat, latex ceiling paint.

Is your plaster ceiling sagging or cracking? Learn how to perform your own plaster ceiling repair!

Peter and Noelle Lord operate Peter Lord Plaster & Paint, Inc.


What a great job they do! Professional staff with over 30+ years of plaster repair.
Tim BWaterford, MI
Tim B
I discovered Jim (JPC Plaster) on Yelp and made the decision to hire him based on the previous, detailed review which perfectly describes Jim’s abilities and work ethic. Jim is a true craftsman and such a pleasure to work with. I hired him to plaster a fireplace after my husband and I decided to change the appearance an existing 1950’s flush-to-the-wall basic red brick fireplace which had been tiled over. Our previous plan was to build it out slightly and put a different time veneer, but after much contemplation, we decided on a plaster fireplace surround. Thankfully we found Jim/JPC Plaster. Jim was honest when it came to determining what work needed to be done vs. what actually didn’t require his services. He was clear about the process, his schedule, availability and how long the work would take. The wok is tedious, labor-intensive yet it all went so smoothly. Plaster work requires a lot of materials and could be very messy, but Jim and his friendly, talented crew were METICULOUS with prepping the work area. Clean-up was no different. The area was spotless when finished. Everything went smoothly and there were no unpleasant surprises. I’m so impressed with the quality of the plaster work he did. I appreciated Jim’s passion for his work and I would happily hire him again. Another bonus of hiring Jim was seeing the way that a plaster expert does the job. It’s more than just an art form; it is truly a unique skill that requires a very talented hand, and Jim is a master at what he does. Jim is a credit to his trade and like a traveler from a past time when craftsmen had a passionate attention to detail and did not finish a job unless it was to all parties’ satisfaction. Highly recommend!
J. G.Livonia, MI
J. G.
My wife and I moved to a 140 year old farm house in December which immediately needed plaster work in three rooms. I found JPC on Google in February and they came out to work in May after they finished a big job in Owosso. This is my first time working with a contractor on plastering so I was flying blind, but was immediately at ease with Jim Conklin the Founder and Owner. Jim knows the history and science of plastering and he is a gifted artisan. He and his colleague Ethan repaired cracks in two rooms, and in one of the rooms removed plaster to the lathe board and redid it, and in that same room took out a 8′ x 8′ section of plaster and lathe and completely redid it. JPC outdid themselves by rescuing a large 5′ medallion which had pulled away from the plaster, by coming at it by removing the floorboards above it, and using adhesive conditioner, Teflon netting and plaster. This drew the medallion upward and solidified it. Impressive. They finished all of this work in five days. They are due back out later this year to continue the work in three other rooms. Even before JPC did their work I was spreading the good word about them, and certainly will continue to do so.
Joseph CAnn Arbor, MI
Joseph C

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